Ingredients to Watch

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Some of the industry’s top gurus share their thoughts on the year’s most innovative ingredients.

Brilliant Brighteners

“Madonna lily regulates skin pigmentation to overcome un-uniform skintone due to aging or excessive UV exposure. This plant stem cell helps prevent and decrease dark spots, allowing skin to look more radiant, lighter, and younger.”—Sam Dhatt, CEO, DermaQuest (www.dermaquestinc.com)

“Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract (bearberry leaf extract) and mitracarpus scaber extract soften and fade pigment spots, pigment accumulations, and skin roughness without aggressive bleaching while preventing the formation of freckles, brown spots, and dark skin areas with excellent anti-aging results.”—Crystal McElroy, L.M.E, C.E., national educator, sales and account executive, Dermatude North America (www.dermatude.com)

“Optimal Skin ProSerum contains the extraordinary natural benefits of turmeric root extract, which is known to boost skin radiance, help even skintone, and brighten and revitalize skin.”—Susan Harmsworth, MBE, founder and CEO, ESPA (www.espaskincare.com)

“Belides, or daisy flower, is not only a great scent so you do not have to use synthetic fragrances but it is also clinically proven to lighten and brighten the skin. Clinical studies have shown it to be twice as active as arbutin for lightening skin up to 30 percent versus untreated.”—Marc A. Ronert, M.D., Ph.D., president and medical director, Image Skincare (www.imageskincare.com)

“Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice root extract) is known for its skin brightening and tyrosinase-inhibiting abilities to improve tone and reduce overall inflammation. It is 25 times more effective than kojic acid and gentler than harsh ingredients like hydroquinone.”—Richard Pietz, global product development director, Jurlique (www.jurlique.com)

“Fruit enzymes are the ultimate skin brighteners. An ideal alternative to synthetic chemical peels without the downtime, the dose of antioxidants they provide visibly softens fine lines while contributing to an overall healthier look and feel.”—Crystal Attia, educator, Shira Esthetics (www.shiraesthetics.com)

 

Powerful Peptides

“Bio-fence peptides are anti-microbial peptides that travel deep into the pores, killing harmful blemish-causing bacteria. Peptides remain in pores for prevention against further bacteria growth.”—Erin Madson, co-owner, Amber Products (www.amberproducts.com)

“Éminence uses botanical peptides to help relax facial muscles and increase collagen production. As ‘personal trainers’ for the skin, regular application can actually correct and prevent the look of aging.”—Boldijarre Koronczay, president, Éminence Organic Skin Care (www.eminenceorganics.com)

“Peptides remain a hot ingredient as they perform a variety of functions and simply supplement what your skin isn’t able to produce anymore.”—April Zangl, CEO and coformulator, HydroPeptide (www.hydropeptide.com)

“Satin Smooth Skincare’s exclusive Axp33 peptide complex combines the anti-wrinkle and firming properties of previous generations, plus brightening capabilities, the latest breakthrough in peptide technology.”—Susanna DiSotto, director of marketing, Satin Smooth (www.satinsmooth.com)

 

Natural Nurturing

“Olive leaf, which is incorporated into the active TEAOXI technology in our GlamGlow ThirstyMud Hydrating Treatment, delivers natural linoleic acid, a moisturizing fatty acid that helps maintain moisture.”—Hannah Murray Duncan, co-owner, Aesthetic Ambassadors (www.aestheticamb.com)

“Shoppers are becoming more comfortable putting oils on their skin. We will continue to witness the growth of traditional oils, such as olive oil and coconut oil, to rare and exotic ones like moringa, monoi, neroli, and merula oils.”—Monica Muniz, associate brand manager, Body Drench (www.bodydrench.com)

“Matcha tea, with its numerous skincare benefits, is this year’s hottest ingredient. From fighting blemishes to exfoliating and detoxifying, it literally feeds your face.”—Regina C. Muhammad, cofounder, Buff Her House of Exfoliation (www.buffher.com)

“Avocado butter has the ability to repair sun damage naturally, as opposed to using a laser or device.”—Chris Birchby, founder and CEO, Coola (www.coolasuncare.com)

 

“Amber succinic acid’s naturally stimulating properties work with the skin’s own bioelectrical field to re-awaken cell activity and communication, which dynamically improves cellular repair and reproduction for maximum cell performance and skin function.”—Noella Gabriel, director of treatment and product development, Elemis (www.elemis.com)

“Antioxidants from fruits and vegetables. Ingredient suppliers continue to create effective actives using fruit and vegetable compounds. Harnessing what comes from the earth is still hot.”—Shannon McLinden, founder and CEO, FarmHouse Fresh (www.farmhousefreshgoods.com)

“Horse chestnut seed extract is one of the most potent antioxidants. It exhibits cell-protecting properties that improve cell structural strength and protect connective tissues and is an anti-solar agent, based on its ability to absorb light.”—Ellen Markus, director of marketing, HydraFacial MD by Edge Systems (www.hydrafacial.com)

“Dilo oil enhances the skin’s own repair mechanism, soothes pain and irritation, and promotes the growth of healthy skin. It contains many chemical components that restore and regenerate skin tissue. The chief proponents are calophyllolides.”—Andrée Austin, cofounder and director, Pure Fiji (www.purefiji.com)

“Plant adaptogens, such as Siberian ginseng, contain natural molecules that are able to dramatically improve the condition of the skin by restoring energy to achieve a homeostatic balance.”—Caroline Rushworth, director of education, Sothys USA (www.sothys-usa.com)

 

Raving About Retinols

“Vitamin A is where it’s at. Although retinols aren’t new, how they perform is. The newest, cutting-edge formulations are non-irritating, hydrating, and visibly transformative."—Marilyn Quist Coates, education sales manager and licensed esthetician, CosMedix (www.cosmedix.com)

“HPR, or hydroxypinacolone retinoate, is an ester of retinoic acid that works similarly to prescriptive Retin A but without the irritation or the need for a prescription. It helps reverse signs of aging, smoothes lines and wrinkles, and boosts collagen production.”—Annet King, director of global education for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute (www.dermalogica.com)

“New retinol technologies and breakthrough ingredients, such as bakuchiol, allow us to blend different forms of retinol for anti-aging, high-performance results without irritation.”—Barbara Close, founder and CEO, Naturopathica (www.naturopathica.com)

“Encapsulated retinaldehyde. Like retinol, it restructures the skin, but it is non-irritating and only requires one step to convert to retinoic acid.”—Rhonda Allison, founder and CEO, Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals (www.rhondaallison.com)

 

Seaworthy Solutions

“My favorite ingredients this year come from the sea. Algae, from single-celled forms to seaweeds, thrive under harsh conditions of salt and sun, and we use them to replenish and protect the skin.”—Cindy Angerhofer, executive director of botanical research, Aveda (www.aveda.com)

“Sea Emerald, harvested from the Philippines seabed, is known to visibly firm and lift the skin and to help stimulate the natural production of collagen.”—Caroline Pollefliet, research and development manager, Darphin Paris (www.darphin.com)

“Ingredients derived from marine biotechnology represent the chemistry of the future; a non-polluting and eco-friendly method that guarantees a maximum respect of marine biodiversity.”—Lenette Casper, CEO and USA president, Phytomer (www.phytomerusa.com)

“AFA algae has recently been scientifically proven to improve collagen synthesis better than vitamin C. It also activates skin’s stem cells.”—Dean Miller, president, RG-Cell Cosmeceuticals (www.rg-cell.com)

 

High-Tech Healing

“Advances in telomere technology use soy and yeast proteins to protect and rebuild the chromosomes, rather than just improving the surface of the skin for long-term age prevention.”—Geraldine Howard, cofounder and president, Aromatherapy Associates (www.aromatherapyassociates.com)

“Epidermal growth factors will be a trend due to their multifunctional abilities to treat fine lines and wrinkles with zero irritation or downtime.”—Kristina Valiani, west coast manager, B. Kamins Skincare (www.bkamins.com)

“Adipophilin reverses age-related lipoatrophy to reduce the appearance of structural aging and nasolabial folds, mimicking the effects of lipo-filling without injections.”—Karen Asquith, national technical training manager, North America, G.M. Collin (www.gmcollin.com)

“Spin traps are potent anti-inflammatory antioxidants that fight the leading causes of aging. When applied after a peel, the spin trap PBN also prevents reactions from glycolic and lactic acids.”—Lyn Ross, L.M.E., founder and CEO, Institut’ Dermed (www.idermed.com)

“Microcurrent stimulates ATP production, which drives the creation of collagen and elastin and energizes the facial muscles for an improved, lifted appearance.”—Tera Valdez-Peterson, CEO, The Carol Cole Company (www.mynuface.com)

“Newly released Unisooth EG-28 inhibits the NF-kB activated signaling pathway in keratinocytes. Communication between the keratinocyte and the immune cells are interrupted, resulting in an inhibition of skin irritation with an immediate soothing effect.”—Kirk Dancak, director of marketing, Vitelle Labs (www.vitellelab.com)

 

Stem Cell Saviors

“We can protect skin cells by using stem cell technology—passing on the extraordinary self-healing capabilities of plant stem cells. By designing them, our labs are at the same time protecting endangered herbal species.”—Andrea Weber, head of the Babor Research and Innovation Centre (www.babor.com)

“Stem cell formulas have maintained their lead as in-demand front-runners. Pevonia’s new Stem Cells Phyto-Elite collection, proprietary advanced formulas for plant origin stem cells, feature a breakthrough in next generation technology, setting the bar for higher standards in cellular regeneration.”—Maritza Rodriguez, global vice president of marketing and communications, Pevonia International (www.pevoniapro.com)