Bag of Tricks

Classroom CosmeticsLet’s face it, summer might bring warm weather, but the effects on the skin can be less than hot. From sweat and sunburn to clogged pores and acne, summer skin often needs just as much attention, if not more, than dry winter skin, and simply purchasing new makeup each season isn’t the solution.

According to recent statistics from the market research company Lab42, 58 percent of female millennials purchase different makeup products for the summer and winter seasons. While it’s important to purchase cosmetics based on the time of year, it’s also important to discard old or expired products to keep skin healthy. However, a recent survey by Poshly and Stowaway Cosmetics found that 89 percent of women hold on to old makeup just in case they need it at a later time, even though 87 percent of them are aware that cosmetics have expiration dates. This provides you with an excellent opportunity for a teachable moment with your clients. “With the change of seasons, my advice is to encourage clients to go through their makeup bags and throw out what has gone bad,” says Janell Geason, global artistic director at Aveda. “If it smells bad, has separated, or doesn’t go on as smoothly, it is time to toss it. Makeup has an expiration period, so it is important to take note of that.” Here, we share how to summer-proof your clients’ makeup bags and take advantage of the season’s hottest trends.

Staying Power

One of the biggest challenges when it comes to summer makeup is keeping it in place on oily or sweaty skin. In order to keep makeup looking its best all day during the summer, our experts advise clients to use primer on the lips and eyes to keep colors from smearing. Sunscreen is also a great alternative to a primer, as makeup naturally adheres to the sunscreen and aides in the wearability, according to Kerry Herta, celebrity makeup artist and founder of  Colour Box Makeup Studios. Because makeup should not be applied over dewy or oily skin, she also suggests blotting any excess moisture, oil, and shine from the skin before makeup application using oil-blotting sheets. “Blotting off skin lotions or oils will help with the longevity and give a cleaner application,” says Herta.Classroom Cosmetics

When it comes to foundation, a few light touches of liquid or powder to blend imperfections is all that is needed to keep skin looking good. Geason suggests setting it with a translucent loose powder. Also, when using eyeliners, set them with shadows or powder, and for lips, layer lip liner on first before applying lip color.

Some Like it Hot

For summer 2016 trends, experts agree that a fresh, clean, natural-looking face is all the rage. “This summer will be all about the skin,” says Herta. “The less-is-more approach to makeup will be hot this summer—toning down the heavy coverage and focusing on clean, natural skin.” She believes that coral, cherry, and fuchsia shades can add a pop of color to a natural appearance, and a touch of shimmer on the cheeks for a subtle highlight can enhance the look further.

Peter Schmidinger, international makeup director for Babor, predicts that shades of peach, mango, and papaya will also be hot colors this summer. “They sound like the contents of a fresh and fruity smoothie, but in fact, they are the ingredients of the makeup look of 2016,” he says. “This summer, makeup is easy-to-wear, fresh, and natural, and so are the products. Focus on light and fruity colors, and wear them with a good mood. Drama can wait until winter.”

Sun Safety

When assisting clients with putting together their summer makeup bags, offer tips to help them keep their skin looking fresh and healthy. One of the most important tips an esthetician or makeup artist can offer a client is to wear sunscreen every day, and reapply as needed, based on the client’s personal burn factor. “Also, make sure you remember to put sunscreen on the tips of the ears, as they are often forgotten and tend to burn easily,” says Hannah Hatcher, global educator for Jane Iredale.

When a client is planning to be outdoors for long periods of time, it’s important to recommend that a sunscreen is applied to the skin in addition to products that contain SPF. Hatcher recommends applying a tablespoon of sunscreen on the face and a shot glass for the body. Once the sunscreen is on, clients should apply makeup with SPF over the top for maximum protection that can be touched up throughout the day. “Also, remember that the strongest SPF number you can achieve is the last SPF product you put on,” says Hatcher. “Although, it is always a good idea to layer SPFs as reinforcement.”

While cosmetics containing SPF are useful in providing additional sun protection, if those products are used alone (without sunscreen), it’s crucial that clients liberally apply them to their skin. “If they use a foundation sparingly or only where needed, then their skin will not be adequately protected,” says Geason. 

Marketing Value

Estheticians should utilize the time they have with clients wisely during and after facial treatments to provide tips on changing up their makeup routines with the seasons. This can be done by offering a five-minute makeup workshop at the end of each treatment, according to Schmidinger. “Don’t just apply the makeup afterward, but explain why you are doing it, where you are applying it, and why you chose the color,” he says. Also, free samples have the biggest influence on women trying a new brand of makeup and can lead to them purchasing the products from your spa’s retail area.

Another way to introduce summer cosmetics to clients is by avoiding the terms makeup or cosmetics, and instead focusing on SPF-based products. “Ask them if they would like to put on a little bit of protection before they leave your location,” says Hatcher. Also, she suggests keeping a caddy in the spa treatment room and making sure all clients are dusted with a dry sunscreen or are color-matched to wear a mineral foundation with SPF. “By positioning these products as more of a skincare or suncare product, clients will be more open to suggestions,” says Hatcher.

At Joya Spa at Omni Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Montelucia (AZ), estheticians offer a mineral-match dusting for each guest post-facial. “Not only does it prevent the guest from slathering a pore-clogging makeup base onto their skin, it provides a natural SPF from the strong Arizona sun,” says spa director Carol Ford. “We know they plan on lounging poolside or getting 18 holes in at the golf course before the sun sets, so a smooth look and protection is a home run.”

All in all, the easiest and most effective way to educate clients on summer makeup is to link it to the services they are receiving. “If the guest is coming into the spa for a brow service, then show them how to fill in their brows with a brow color and brush afterward,” says Geason. “If they are coming in for a facial, then look at what type of facial they received. It can even be as simple as having a conversation on how to create a great summer makeup look—guests always love tips for seasonal changes.”

The Beauty Inside

The Poshly and Stowaway Cosmetics findings indicate that the average woman owns almost 40 makeup products but only carries and uses about five of them. Because summer skin requires different care, the new season not only offers clients the perfect chance to toss expired or unused products left over from the fall, winter, and spring seasons but also to condense the bag by including only new and must-have products. Here’s what some experts suggest clients include in their makeup bags this summer:

“Your clients’ summer makeup bags should have a lip color stick, so that they can refresh their look throughout the sunny day. If they have a date later, they should throw in an eyeshadow stick to create an evening look and a pressed powder for an even complexion.”—Peter Schmidinger, international makeup director, Babor

“Keep a lip treatment balm to make sure lips don’t dry out and a bronzer for quick color add-ons for the cheeks.”—Alejandro Falcon, artistic director and national educator, Osmosis Pür Medial Skincare

“Keep it simple with a tinted moisturizer with sunscreen, a lip balm with an SPF, bronzer,
a bright pink or coral for the cheeks, and mascara. For eyes and lips, choose a fun pop of color such as blue, turquoise, or violet for eyes, and coral, pink, or fiery red for lips. And lastly, always have some core natural tones for eyes and lips.”—Janell Geason, global artistic director, Aveda

“A perfect summer makeup bag should consist of not only sunscreen for the face but also an SPF for the lips. We sometimes tend to forget that lips need protecting, as well. I always recommend lip stains in the summer, because they have color and wear well, plus you can keep applying SPF over them to stay protected. Cheek stains provide the same benefits. There are great lip and cheek stain products on the market—and multi-use products always help keep a makeup bag lighter. Also, tinted moisturizer, a brow gel, a flake-proof mascara, and oil-blotting sheets are essentials.” —Kerry Herta, founder, Colour Box Makeup Studios

“Always have a lightweight translucent powder and a hydrating booster on hand to refresh skin throughout the day. And always carry SPF in your makeup bag. Anytime you refresh your makeup, apply an SPF.”—Sara LaBree, educational manager, Jurlique

Check out this steamy assortment of summer makeup products made to beat the heat.—Darby Radcliff

1. Ardell Brow Defining Kit: Avoid smudging eyebrow makeup with a brow powder palette that includes three shades, one highlighter, and a professional brush to create the perfect sweat-proof arch.

2. Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Luminous Blush: This hybrid pressed powder helps clients achieve a glorious glow with a feminine coral shade (Snapdragon shown) that flatters all skintones.

3. Colorescience Even Up Clinical Pigment Corrector SPF 50: Prevent sun damage with this three-in-one formula containing Lumira, which is a skin-brightening complex that improves the appearance of skin discoloration.

4. Coola SPF 30 Rosilliance Organic BB Cream: Formulated with 70 percent certified-organic ingredients and rose stem cells, this tinted moisturizer provides a luminous glow for a healthy-looking finish.

5. Erin’s Faces Mineral Eye Shadow: Take a summer bronze to a new level with this shimmering mineral powder eyeshadow in Sunkissed.

6. Glo Therapeutics Moisturizing Tint SPF 30+: Protect against the sun’s damaging rays with this oil-free formula that adds sheer color to even the skintone.

7. Grande Naturals GrandeLips: Brighten a client’s look with this vibrant lip plumper in a trendy tropical coral shade (Sunset Orange shown).

8. HydroPeptide Perfecting Gloss: Provide hydration all summer long with a sheer, neutral lip-enhancing treatment (Nude Pearl shown) that adds the perfect amount of shimmer.

9. Jane Iredale Bronzer: Featuring a warm golden shade, this bronzer (Moonglow shown) from The Good Glow Collection can be swept across cheeks, eyes, and lips to create an all-over sun-kissed glow.

10. Kryolan Professional Make-Up Nebula Contour Set: Create a natural summer look with this contour set that includes highlight, blush, and contour shades infused with micronized pigments. It can be applied using a spray gun or a brush. 

11. Manna Kadar Liplocked Priming Gloss Stain: Nourish lips with this bright fuchsia formula (Manna Babe shown), which is made with berry extract and vitamins A and E and delivers a lasting pigment.

12. Repêchage Perfect Skin Natural Finish Pressed Powder: Made with soothing chamomile flower oil, antioxidant-rich seaweed, titanium dioxide, and vitamin E, this silky powder creates a shine-free complexion.