Some skincare companies and spas have totally eliminated the extraction step from facials to provide clients a relaxing experience. “Often, great results can be achieved with the right ingredients and homecare systems,” says Shannon Esau, director of sales and education at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals. “For instance, clays are a great partner with cystic acne, as they help lift out impurities and bring bacteria to the surface. Enzymes like AHAs and even peel treatments can also help do most of the work of the extraction. And a quality at-home system and lifestyle changes will also be extremely important to remedying acne.” Here’s a look at some companies and spas that have opted to do away with extractions.
“We let the products do the work. In my opinion, the fewer physical tools and the more gentle skincare tools to prep, peel, and heal make all the difference,” says Gül Zone, founder, CEO, and biochemist, Dermaware Bio-Targeted Skin Care. At CHI, The Spa at Shangri-La Villingili Resort & Spa (Maldives), for example, extractions are not offered in any of the facials, including the Signature Caviar Facial ($225, 90 minutes), which utilizes Kerstin Florian products to help firm, tone, and hydrate the skin with protein-rich caviar and powerful antioxidants. “We use holistic and natural products for our facials, which are not suited for extractions,” says spa director Jocelyn Morales. “Mainly, extractions would involve the usage of equipment and other smaller gadgets, which we do not use or suggest for the holistic products we use.”
“Biologique Recherche does not believe in extractions or anything else that is going to weaken or potentially damage the epidermis, such as harsh facial scrubs or repeatedly strong peels," says Sandra Friedli, director of education USA, Biologique Recherche. "The reason is because it is tremendously important to have a fully potent and strong epidermis, as it impacts the overall health and look of skin. We aim to restore and strengthen the protective barrier function of the epidermis, accelerate epidermal reconstruction, and restructure by boosting the repair capacity of damaged skin.” At The Peninsula Spa at The Peninsula Beverly Hills (CA), clients can enjoy the Healthy Glow ($345, 60 minutes) facial, which uses Biologique Recherche products to help reverse the signs of aging without the use of steam or extractions.
“Facials are professional treatments to improve the health and beauty of the skin, so extractions, when needed, are a must, but the reality is that not all clients who receive facials want extractions," says Paula Provenzano, national education manager at Jurlique. "That is where the conversation between esthetician and client becomes key to a positive outcome. As a skincare vendor, we provide spas with products and training on how to use them, but that is up to the interpretation of each spa. Spas and spa management should work with their service providers to define their therapeutic goals for treatment. Points of customization, which would include the inclusion or omission of extractions, must ultimately be left to the discretion of the skincare professional.”
Salamander Spa at Salamander Resort & Spa (Middleburg, VA) extractions are omitted during most facials like the Blueberry Anti-Aging Facial ($225, 90 minutes), which utilizes Alchimie Forever products to calm and soothe skin. It is believed that advancements in skincare products and technology make the use of steam and manual extractions unnecessary for best results. However, according to spa director Cindi Moreno, extractions are typically not needed, and the focus is on renewing and repairing.