Ingredient Innovations


Nature’s Bounty

“Nature’s oil-blotting ingredients, including saw palmetto, sesame seed oil, argan oil, and Chinese peony, absorb oil in the follicle before it reaches the surface.”—Teresa Stenzel, director of education, Bioelements Professional Skin Care (www.


“Shiitake mushrooms, an ingredient in our new Intense Defense Serum, provide vitamins A, B, C, and especially D. Also, they provide immune-response stimulation and diminish surface microbial counts.”—Carl Thornfeldt, M.D., founder, Epionce (

“Resveratrol that has gone through biofermentation provides anti-aging and anti- inflammatory functions. This process allows it to penetrate deeper and more rapidly into the skin.”—Janel Luu, CEO and founder, Le Mieux Cosmetics (


“Pure pomegranate toners and serums are supercharged with punicic acid, an omega-5 fatty acid, stimulating cell regeneration that results in healthy skintone and texture.”—Crystal Attia, sales and education director, Shira Esthetics (www.shira


“This year’s hot skincare ingredient is coconut oil. No longer found only in our kitchen pantries, we are seeing this ultra-hydrating skin superfood in some of the most advanced skincare products.”—Chris Birchby, founder and CEO, COOLA Suncare (


Skin-Saving Stem Cells

“Plant stem cells are hot and are here to stay. These are either powerful antioxidants or skin cell regenerators. In the next few months, we will be seeing new stem cells of rare plants and flowers on the market.”—Fabienne Lindholm, executive director of education, Babor Cosmetics (


“Plant-derived stem cells have a unique ability to inhibit elastase while promoting healthy tissue growth.”—Melanie Timms, product educator, CBI Laboratories (


“Stem cells derived from edelweiss have the ability to re-densify thinning, dry skin, help- ing the skin appear firmer. They also inhibit collagenase, thus limiting the breakdown of the peptide bonds in collagen. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties protect, calm, and balance.”—Noella Gabriel, director of product and treatment development, Elemis (


“Plant stem cell technology is one of the greatest natural breakthroughs. Our Age Corrective Night products are formulated with argan stem cells to stimulate cell regenera- tion.”—Boldijarre Koronczay, president and founder, Éminence Organic Skin Care (


“Plant-derived stem cells are the latest innovation. Paired with peptides, antioxidants, and sun protection, stem cells can actually help slow the appearance of aging.”—Jacquelyn Hill, director of education, IMAGE Skincare (


Exotic Ingredients

“Baobab oil is incredibly high in anti- oxidants and has traditionally been used by African women as a way of protecting skin from the harsh climate of the savannahs.”—Kristy Cimesa, founder, Elemental Herbology (


“Extremozymes are enzyme systems that help plants survive in extreme environments, such as ocean depths, polar areas, deserts, and volcanos. We have borrowed from the genetic adaptations of these plants to help protect skin.” —Charlene DeHaven, M.D., Innovative Skincare (


“Kakadu plum is noted for its high con- centration of vitamin C and considered to be the world’s richest natural source. Topical use reduces skin discolorations while addressing signs of aging.”—Lisa Polley, director of education and business development, Jurlique (


“Chrondrus crispus hydrates the dermis. The plentiful, hearty marine algae replaces petroleum and silicone to lead the megatrend of prioritizing planet and people over profit alone.”—Sean Patrick Harrington, founder and CEO, Previse SkinCare (


“Siberian ginseng boosts immunity, thus increasing energy and vitality. This ‘youth-revealing’ ingredient boosts skin-cell metabolism and leaves skin luminous and regenerated.”—Lisa Heinemann, sales director, Sothys USA (


“Vitelle’s Spring 2013 collection features certified organic sqisandryl. Derived from schisandra chinensis fruit, it rein- forces cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis. Based on clinical studies, skin becomes firmer and more elastic in only eight weeks.”—Liz Beresford, CEO, Vitelle Labs (


“Exotic oils, such as camu camu oil, marula oil, meadow foam oil, neroli oil, and seaberry oil, continue to be popular thanks to the huge success we have seen with argan oil in the beauty industry. These natural and rare oils are packed with fatty acids and are scientifically proven to be beneficial when applied topically to the skin.”—Nadia Fathallah, senior brand manager, Body Drench (www.


Retinol Redux

“The hottest ingredient of 2013 is retinaldehyde (retinal). Encapsulation technology now allows us to harness its power. It is more biologically active than retinol and one step from prescription- strength retinoic acid.” —Casey Cochran Pflieger, senior brand manager, CosMedix and Results Rx (


“The hottest ingredient we are using is hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a new non-prescription retinoid that is an isomer of retinoic acid that helps reverse the signs of aging without irritation.”—Diana Howard Ph.D., vice president of research and development and global education for Dermalogica (www. and The International Dermal Institute (www.dermal


“Retinol is significant for the many extraordinary skin benefits it provides and the technologies that are now being developed to help stabilize it and allow for a precise delivery of higher concentrations.” —Christian Jurist, M.D., AMS, FS, global medical director of education, Pevonia International (


Vital Vitamins

“Vitamin K provides great anti-aging properties and increases the skin’s elasticity. It also reduces the appearance of wrinkles and spider veins.”—Jean Shea, president, Biotone (


“Vitamin C is a workhorse ingredient in skincare. It helps stimulate skin’s natural collagen and has antioxidant properties.”—Erika Bosley, marketing manager, Refineé Skin Care (


High Tech Healing

“A new ingredient and delivery system to address uneven skintone and pigmentation is forthcoming. It will replace hydroquinone as a safe and non-toxic alternative.”—Carol Trow, president, DermaConcepts, distributor of Environ Skincare (


“Peptides—they’re worth every drop. An ingredient in foundations and serums, they bring dermatologist results with ongoing use to many different skin types.”—Shannon McLinden, president, FarmHouse Fresh (


“Adipofil, which is designed to mimic lipo-filling results, reduces the appearance of structural aging, mainly nasolabial folds, saggy jowls, and under-eye hollowness.”—Karen Asquith, national director of education, G.M. Collin Skincare (


“My favorite right now is telangyn, or acetyl tetrapeptide-33. A group of women with mild rosacea noticed a more even skintone after only 28 days of use.”—April Zangl, CEO and co-formulator, HydroPeptide (


“Skincare products containing sub micro-emulsified oxygen plasma have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties and accelerate healing processes. Hence, oxygen plasma has shown unparalleled efficacy in treating acne and rosacea and triggers new formation of collagen and elastin for wrinkle and scar reduction.”—Jim Knut Larsson, president, Knutek (


“Thiotaine, a powerful antioxidant and amino acid, boosts cellular energy while chelating copper and inhibiting tyrosinase, which is a leading cause of collagen degradation and hyperpigmentation.”—Michael Bruggeman, CEO, Organic Male OM4 (


Beauty with Bite

“2013’s hottest skincare ingredient is Micro- Venom. Marrying two of the most advanced topical anti-aging treatments, MicroVenom delivers both regenerative apple stem cells and wrinkle-smoothing synthetic snake venom in one groundbreaking formula.” —Nate Dakar, president and CEO, Sonya Dakar Skincare (


“Bee venom facial treatments have been a beauty secret enjoyed only by celebrities and European royalty, until now—Kate Middleton had a treat- ment of bee venom and Manuka honey leading up to her marriage to Prince William, and Camilla Parker Bowle’s softer, more youthful look is attributed to bee venom facials.”—Elda Argenti, president, Plantogen (