Innovations to Watch

Innovations to WatchAround-the-Clock Repair

“Taking the skin’s chronobiology into account is the biggest innovation. Our skin has its own timing: during the day it fights environmental stressors, at night it is all about regeneration. That is why developing actives that consider this internal clock is extremely important.”­—Andrea Weber, head of the Babor Research and Innovation Center (

“Seriously effective, natural overnight treatments are vital in our busy modern lives. These multitasking formulas undo the effects of poor sleep, address environmental or free-radical damage, boost cellular regeneration, and even improve sleep.”—Sue Harmsworth, MBE, founder and chairman, ESPA International (

Improved Delivery Systems

“3D printing is the wave of the future and is making its way into beauty and skincare. It took a decade of research to implement the first hyaluronic acid electrospun machine—it weaves acid nanofiber patches that when applied accelerate cell renewal.”—Laura Gerchik, general manager, Biologique Recherche USA (

“New encapsulation technology allows botanical ingredients to be guided directly to the fibroblast, delivering targeted benefits where the skin needs it the most.”—Milana Knowles, senior director of spa development, Clarins (

“Advancements in infusion technology are the greatest innovations; ensuring product penetration and effectively delivering active ingredients to deeper layers of the skin for cellular renewal.”—Ginger Hodulik, clinical nurse specialist and vice president, DermaMed Solutions (

“The new patented form of vitamin C does not oxidize and gets active only once delivered inside skin cells.”—Manon Pilon, research and development director and consultant, Derme & Co (

“Anything that feeds the skin from the inside is innovative. Change on the skin is more effective and longer lasting when it reflects overall health. Fortunately, there are now nutritional supplements that target the skin by feeding it the nutrients it needs.”—Jane Iredale, founder and president, Iredale Mineral Cosmetics (

Environmental Protection

“New generation antioxidants and anti-radiation and anti-pollution technologies that protect the skin against new sources of radiation, such as laptops, mobile devices, and the environment, are some of the greatest innovations.”—Irena James, cofounder and vice president of product development, CelleClé Skincare (

“Uvaxine is an innovative patented ingredient that acts as a strong anti-aging shield that protects cells from aggressive UVA and UVB rays. The cells are protected long term while preventing and eliminating the appearance of dark spots.”—Theadora Guzman, East coast executive and manager, Cinq Mondes (

“Anti-pollution products incorporating moringa oleifera, which provides skin with a natural shield, protecting it from the aging and damaging effects of environmental pollution on skin, are innovative.”—Jaklin Idris, director of education, Decléor Paris (

“Phytocutan is the ultimate solution for sensitive skin. Obtained through photo-stimulation, a patented extraction system, it enhances its highly calming, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties.”—Laura Muñoz, public relations and communications director U.S. and Mexico, Natura Bissé International (

“This year’s greatest skincare innovation is the development of a self tanner that also contains broad-spectrum SPF 50. Formulating a product that gives such a high level of protection alongside a natural-looking tan gives people a genuinely viable alternative to skin damage through sun exposure. —Claire Andrews, communications manager and NKD SKN brand ambassador, Vita Liberata (

Gems and Precious Stones

“The major breakthrough in the beauty industry lately is the ability of some brands to include and infuse natural gems like diamonds and pearls into their formulas for superior results.”—Sam Gil, director of business development, Forever Flawless (

“This year, the innovations that are trending are in the anti-aging luxury category with ingredients such as diamond powder and diamond peptides taking center stage.”—Karen Asquith, national director of education, G.M. Collin (

“Progressively designed jade tools elevate the benefits of anti-aging facials by helping resculpt facial contours, lift sagging skin, enhance blood circulation, and reduce inflammation.”—Janel Luu, founder and CEO, Le Mieux and PurErb ( and

Natural Solutions

“Response to social consciousness and an understanding of health holistically are the biggest influencers in skincare. It is great to see companies taking responsibility for using cleaner, more planet-friendly ingredients that do no harm to our environment, our bodies, or to animals.”
—Cherie Jackson, chief brand officer, Jindilli (

“Plant-based, nutrient-rich water essences are innovative and feature ingredients like marshmallow root, which offers continuous hydration with a fast-absorbing lightweight texture.”—Sara LaBree, education manager, Jurlique (

“New ingredient extraction technologies are key—gemmotherapy extraction isolates embryonic plant tissue precisely at peak enzymatic activity. Move over synthetics. Green science is here to stay.”—Michael Bruggeman, CEO, Organic Male OM4 (

“Clean cosmeceuticals, which are active ingredients that work with the skin’s natural processes, act as a catalyst to correct and prevent skin damage without causing irritation.”—Barbara Close, founder and CEO, Naturopathica (

“Non-invasive options to sexier, fuller lips are in demand, and so is sesame seed extract for progressive, long-lasting lip-plumping results. Clinical tests revealed that this extract increased lipid synthesis and storage by 30.2 percent in 30 days.”—Christian Jurist, M.D., medical director of global education, Pevonia (

“Marine biotechnology is one of the greatest innovations. Through it, we cultivate our own powerful, natural, active ingredients from a single marine micro-organism, without the addition of chemicals or artificial products.”—Lenette Casper, president, Phytomer Group Brands (

“Prebiotics and probiotics are mostly associated with gut health, but the beneficial bacteria are now taking to the stage in skincare. Both by topical application and oral ingestion, these bacteria can help stabilize the microflora of the skin, which may help to promote the barrier function and control bacterial infections such as acne.”—Katherine Tomasso, national director of education, Yon-Ka Paris (

Custom-Tailored Treatments

“The customization of results-oriented peels and targeted treatments to address the specific skincare concerns of increasingly savvy consumers is one of this year’s greatest innovations.”—Boldijarre Koronczay, president, Éminence Organic Skin Care (

“Retinol is no longer one-size-fits-all. With condition-specific ingredients paired with powerful retinol, we’re dramatically improving acne, aging, and discoloration.”—Danae Markland, vice president of business development, PCA Skin (

“This year, it’s less about one standout ingredient and more about understanding how to work with skin of all ancestries. It’s the year of skin of color.”—Rhonda Allison, founder and CEO, Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals (

Popular Peptides

 “Peptides are all the rage in the skincare industry. Cosmetic chemists have brilliantly designed their products with ingredients based on naturally occurring amino acids to help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”—Candace Noonan, master esthetician and director of education, Environ (

“Peptides—not only do they achieve better results than other harsh ingredients but they are also much safer. By applying certain topical peptides, you’re essentially nourishing the skin with a protein diet that realigns its building blocks, allowing for a stronger, healthier foundation.”—Neal Kitchen, PhD, vice president of strategy and development, HydroPeptide (

“The proprietary third-generation peptide Axp33+Vitamin C complex is enhanced with youth-boosting potential and is simple to use on all skin types,”—Susanna DiSotto, director of marketing, Satin Smooth (

Innovations to WatchTech Revolution

“Education is key. The utilization of video tutorials has created educational convenience. We can now educate professionals the world over, right from our computers.”—Stefanie Mullen, head of digital marketing, Amber Products (

“The biggest trend this year will be a strong demand for layering serums and products that target specific concerns, such as the dreaded ‘text neck.’”—Soraya Thonier, marketing manager, Sothys USA (


“Anti-aging ingredients in all skincare products are trending, as those in their 20s and 30s realize it’s never too early to start nourishing skin and preventing damage.”—Jin Yoon, CEO, Bodipure (

“The resurgence of retinol is this year’s greatest innovation. Discovered almost 85 years ago, this powerful anti-aging active delivers results that go beyond the skin surface to work deep at the cellular level.”—Jean Shea, founder and president, True Results (