Know the Standards

EMDA, a sub-group of the American Beauty Association, works to ensure that estheticians are more knowledgeable about the products and issues related to their business. Here are some frequently used terms you should be familiar with.

Cosmetic Resurfacing Exfoliating Substance and Equipment These include cosmetic-use AHAs (Glycolic and Lactic Acids), BHAs (salicylic acid), Jessner's solutions (14 percent salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol) or modifications thereof, and proteolytic enzymes (papain, bromelain). The term also includes mechanical instruments and instruments that mechanically administer substances-including brushing machines, polyethylene granular scrubs, loofah or textured sponges, gommage and microdermabrasion instruments-provided the manufacturer has established and substantiated product and equipment safety. The term excludes all other chemical and mechanical exfoliation/peeling procedures and substances including, but not limited to, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), carbolic acid (phenol), or combinations thereof and further excludes all adulterated chemical exfoliating/peeling substances.

Cosmetic Resurfacing Exfoliating Procedures The application of cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances by licensed practitioners for the purpose of improving the aesthetic appearance of the skin.

Cosmetic Use AHAs Alpha hydroxy acid exfoliation preparations that do not exceed a 30 percent concentration with a pH value not lower than pH 3.0, as established and recommended by the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel.

Licensed Practitioner A cosmetologist, esthetician, or other person licensed or otherwise authorized by an appropriate state government regulatory agency to administer cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances who is practicing in a cosmetology establishment as regulated by local or state ordinances or laws.

Microdermabrasion The Federal Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists microdermabrasion equipment as Class I devices intended for use by licensed practitioners trained in the appropriate use of such equipment. For purposes of EMDA's Guidelines, microdermabrasion equipment is considered a cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating

substance only if it is used in a manner that is not intended to remove viable (living) skin below the stratum corneum.

Professional Use Cosmetic resurfacing exfoliation substances and procedures are intended for "professional use only." Only licensed practitioners should administer cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances. These products and procedures are not intended for consumer resale or use. Licensed practitioners must not use any equipment or practice intended to remove viable (living) skin below the stratum corneum.

Compliance with State Requirements Licensed practitioners must comply with all rules and regulations established by their respective state boards of cosmetology or other governmental regulatory agency regarding cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances and procedures.

Instructional Materials and Training

EMDA recommends that manufacturers marketing and distributing cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances for professional use provide instructional procedure and product use training materials for licensed practitioners. Manufacturer-sponsored training programs are independent of the training requirements established by individual state boards of cosmetology in professional skincare. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer to provide procedural guidelines, practical training, and video and/or written instructional materials with the initial purchase of its products or equipment by or for licensed practitioners.

Manufacturer instructional training should cover theoretical and practical application of cosmetic resurfacing exfoliating substances and procedures. Licensed practitioners must check and follow state board requirements and training and safety data and information supplied by the manufacturer.

EMDA recommends the following training programs: theoretical overview, scientific and safety data; clinical indications vs. cosmetic applications; client general history, skin evaluation, realistic expectations; contra-indications/precautions; predisposition patch testing; client pre-application care; application procedure; post-application care; and client follow-up.