The Secret to Giving Your Clients Perfect Brows

Malynda Vigliotti shares her secrets to perfect brows. // Photo credit: Pro2sound/iStock/Getty Images Plus

While the early 2000s might have been the years of thin brows, it’s no secret than in 2018 thick brows are in full effect. Clients are asking for defined arches, deeper color, and a number of procedures to help them achieve that bold-browed look. Before suggesting your clients go under the blade (for a treatment like microblading, perhaps), it’s important to ensure you as the waxer or esthetician are not removing too much brow during your client’s current services.

“Let’s face it, brows are tricky and it’s easy to take too much off,” says Malynda Vigliotti, owner of Boom Boom Brow Bar (New York City). Vigliotti, whose spa has served over 330,000 clients, suggests advising clients to pencil in or powder their eyebrows exactly how they would want them, and to then shape around the client’s desired fill. “When you think about it, it’s a brilliant idea—whether someone is doing their own brows or guiding a professional on the shape they want,” says Vigliotti.

With your clients clear visual, it makes ensuring you’re not removing too much hair a much easier task. But besides what is visible to the natural eye, there are a number of other factors that can cause excess hair removal. Vigliotti suggests remembering these three tips to ensure your clients get the brows they truly want.

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1. Medications: Always ask guests if they are using prescription medication like Accutane, Retinol, Trilna, Benzoyl Peroxide or any antibiotic before any waxing service. Unfortunately, these medications can cause skin to peel off when waxed, so it’s best to stick to tweezing.

2. No Double Dipping: Every time a stick is dipped into wax, it should be a clean, new stick. Some argue that double dipping is okay because the temperature of the wax kills bacteria, but that has yet to be proven true.  It’s better to be safe than sorry – introducing a client to bacteria will not only hurt your clients skin but your reputation as well.

3. Wax Matters: Use a low temperature wax like a lipo-soluable cream wax heated at a lower temperature so it very gentle, even on sensitive skin. The skin around the eye area is very thin, with no sebaceous (oil) glands and minimal elastin fibers, so it is harder to regulate the oil balance and pH of the skin. Since this skin is so delicate, products must be designed specifically for this area. The low-temperature formulas often contain healing properties titanium dioxide and lavender to calm skin and minimize irritation. It’s always best to use a wax that is specifically designed for use on the eyebrow area; a stronger wax might remove too much hair or even skin.

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